Ricky Gervais eat your heart out!

The advert asked for young, fit and athletic white males. But I applied anyway and a few days later I was on board a plane bound for Cyangugu in south west Rwanda. The short flight was amazing as we flew low over Lake Kivu with its’ multitude of small inhabited islands with spectacular views over the mountains of western Congo.


My friends and I were to be extras and play soldiers in a film about Operation Turquoise – the so called humanitarian and highly controversial French mission to Rwanda in July 1994. Controversial in that Operation Turquoise was also intended (but failed) to prevent the anglophile RPF conquering Rwanda and it emerged later that many of those who orchestrated the 1994 genocide escaped into Congo (then Zaire) with the direct assistance of the military officers serving in Operation Turquoise.

On the whole it was a fun experience as we played at being soldiers, saw at first hand how movies are made and incurred the frustration of our temperamental and arrogant director. I’m glad I wasn’t the brunt of his “and who the hell have you worked with” taunt at one of the film crew. I think however he liked my joke: What is the difference between the French and a piece of toast? You can make soldiers out of toast!


It was however often a sobering experience and it was all too easy to imagine how the props, including guns, machetes and clubs studded with huge nails, were used for the most horrendous, bloody and cruel acts.

After 3 days filming – I’m not sure if I’ve actually made the silver screen – I spent a morning exploring Cyangugu including an unofficial visit to the prison. I pretty much just walked in unchallenged and mingled amongst the convicts clad in the pink prison uniforms common in Rwandan jails. It was strange and surreal to stroll amongst so many that may have participated directly in the genocide. After about 10 minutes however, I had my collar felt and was escorted to the governor’s office for a dressing down and a menacing “we will punish you next time you entertain an unsanctioned visit”. It’s not the first time my curiosity’s got the better of me.

Cheers

Andy
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